A: Pigs do occasionally sneeze for no other reason than they have a tickle in their nose and they sneeze just like us ! However, sneezing can be a sign of a respiratory infection or even an allergy. Does your pig have any other symptoms such as noisy breathing, weepy eyes, discharge from her nose or does she look quieter than usual and is she eating less ? These symptoms can all indicate that your piggy may be ill. If you suspect she is poorly please take her to the vet asap for a proper diagnosis and treatment advice. Have you recently switched to a new type of bedding ? Is the bedding or the hay dusty ? Have you moved the location of the pen to a dusty badly ventilated room ? These are all things to consider in the quest for finding out why she is sneezing.

A: As with sneezing [above] pigs do sometimes just like to have a nice scratch ! Again, check for other symptoms such as: is there any hair-loss or bald areas, is there scurfing of the skin, are their any small scabs, can you see broken hairs or does your pig appear irritated / in pain when being handled ? These symptoms, accompanying the scratching, could point to a fungal or parasitic condition - If you suspect this then please take her to the vet asap for a proper diagnosis and treatment advice.

A: This could be several things - as with the scratching and sneezing questions [above] are there any other symptoms which could indicate a fungal / mite problem ? Has she recently had babies or is she pregnant ? Hormones can result in bi-lateral hairloss [either side of her flanks]. Ovarian cysts can also cause bi-lateral hairloss. Guinea pigs naturally shed loose hair, as we all do, a little is normal - you will get to know what is normal for your pig - but when the shedding is heavier and is accompanied by other symptoms it is time to have your guinea pig examined by a vet for a proper diagnosis.

A: This is one of those questions that is very difficult to answer via an email/online - the initial questions I would ask would be along the lines of:

• Is it showing any signs of ill-health ? - check your guinea pig all over for signs of injuries or illness - if you suspect an illness take it to a vet asap for a thorough check-up. A change in behaviour - eg becoming quiet is often one of the first signs of ill-health - has it been outside and eaten something poisonous ? has it fallen off something ? There are many variables, think of everything you can.
• Has it recently lost it's piggy friend ? - if so, it could be pining/missing her. Is there any possibility of you getting another pig to keep her company? Make sure you give her lots of attention, exercise, and keep her entertained so she isn't bored.
• Is it a new guinea pig ? - if so it could be quiet and nervous and it will take time and patience to help her settle in.
• Is it very old ? - Is it housed outdoors in the cold of winter subject to wind and dampness ? - is it being fed/cared for properly ? etc.

As you can see, there is no definate answer to this question - only you can do the determining and investigating really, with the inclusion of your vet if you feel your pig may be ill. The best advice I can give [as with most health queries] is that if your pig is uncharacteristicly quiet and you can't think of an obvious reason then have a veterinary check-up - SOONER rather than later.

A: First of all, are you absolutely sure she is not eating and what makes you think that ? Is it a new shy pig who always hides away from you so you've never actually seen her eating for example ? If it is, then if you search the bedding you will more than likely find poops which will indicate she is eating when she is on her own etc - she may be eating dry mix and hay that you've not noticed disappearing ! Also refer to Feeding section in FAQ #2.

However, if you really are sure your pig isn't eating then it is a serious situation you need to get resolved as quickly as you can. Take her to the Vet asap to determine what is wrong with her - it could be many things and the vet is the best person to examine your pig and the best person to advise you on her treatment and whether to syringe feed her or not - please by guided by your vet. I would never syringe feed my pigs without finding out what the problem is and getting it sorted out ! There is a syringe feeding page on the site but it is to accompany any advice given by your vet - a few tips -it should never replace proper veterinary advice !

A: Why do you think it is too fat ? Pigs vary in size and are supposed to be a nice chunky handful - they can be anywhere between 2lb and even over 3.5lb when fully grown and of varying levels of daintyness and chunkiness ! Personally, I would be more concerned if my guinea pig was underweight than overweight as when they are poorly they drop weight so quickly, a little extra won't hurt - it is really only if they are obesely fat that I would worry about health implications - and then I would want a vet to tell me that it had got to that stage rather than me taking the matter in to my own hands !

One of the first things I think of when asked this question is whether the pig is female and whether it has had access to a male, either in it's home, or if it is a new pig, at the petshop/previous home - if so then there is every possibility that she could be pregnant and that is why she is getting fat. A visit to a vet could confirm this.

If there is no possibility of pregnancy / or the pig is male then I'd still feel unsure about whether a pig really was overweight. Don't forget, males are often a little heftier than the females - this is normal so just because a male piggy of yours is bigger than a female piggy it doesn't mean he is overweight. However, if you have had it confirmed that your pig is officially overweight and needs to lose weight for the sake of it's health then the first thing I would do would be to increase her exercise - lots more floor-time, plus some new tunnels etc in the cage to stimulate activity - perhaps even get a bigger cage with plenty of room to move around - the C&C cages are a good option as you can build very large one's for a reasonable amount of money. Make sure you don't feed any sugary 'pet' treats or molassed feed mixes. What type of feed mix are you feeding ? Is it a mix which your pig is selectively feeding from - eating all the fattening elements and leaving the pellets ? Is it a high fat mix containing nuts [which you shouldn't be feeding as nuts can be considered a choking hazard as well as having a high fat content] ? You can discuss this with your vet but it might be an idea to very gradually switch your pig over to a nutritionally complete pelleted feed such as Oxbow Cavy Cuisine which is regarded as a very good Timothy hay based cavy pellet. Remember to always switch food gradually so as not to cause digestive problems. Do not feed more than a small piece of fruit a day to reduce her sugar intake for now. Keep feeding plenty of hay and veggies and a nice handful of dry mix a day, to cover the bottom of the bowl. Hopefully the extra exercise, the first course of action, will resolve any weight issues your pig may have within a few weeks without having to interfere with her diet.

A: Looking after your guinea pig correctly means you will have the greatest chance of a happy and healthy guinea pig - you will be reducing their chance of 'husbandry' related diseases and keep them alert, happy and interested in life. If, for example, a cage is not being cleaned out regularly there are serious risks to your guinea pigs health eg: Upper Respiratory Infections - as a result of built up ammonia and dampness from soiled bedding, this can also cause eye irritation etc. Your piggy may be at risk of developing 'bumblefoot' a very painful condition where the feet become red, inflamed and infected, she may suffer urine scald from sitting on the urine soiled bedding, she could be at a higher risk of developing Urinary Tract Infections from being soiled around her rear-end from the dirty bedding, if there is a large build up of droppings they could attract flies to lay their eggs there and you could have a hutch full of maggots. Rotten food left in with your pig could give her nasty tummy upsets - the list goes on. If she's not being cleaned out properly/regularly I would be worried she's not being fed properly - no hay for a healthy digestive system and tooth grinding, no veggies for Vitamin C, no pellets etc resulting in drastic loss of weight and ill-health, no fresh water etc, she could be being exposed to the elements - freezing damp bedding in the winter with no lovely fresh hay to snuggle in for warmth or suffer heatstroke in the summer etc. She's probably not being taken out for exercise or cuddles, and therefore any signs of disease will probably be missed. What a very sad life for your poor guinea pig.

As a parent of a child who is not looking after their guinea pig correctly - what can you do ? Well, you have to take full responsibility for ensuring the pig is being cared for correctly - as the adult in the situation. Lead by example, care for the pig, give it lots of attention, build a bond with it - you may find your child will then feel left out and suddenly re-develop an interest in the pig and care for it properly again - the pig could become a joint bonding pet for you both. You may decide that you do actually love the pig yourself and will happily give it the well-cared for life it deserves regardless of what your child thinks - or you might come to an agreement with your child that you do the cleaning out and they do the feeding and exercise/cuddling - come to some sort of compromise if this works for you and the pig. Try and find out what it is about caring for the pig that the child is not happy with - perhaps if it is in an outside hutch your child isn't comfortable with going outside in the the cold and mud or hasn't built a bond with the pig - a possible solution to renew interest could be seeing if your child wants the pig bought to live indoors - there's lots of suitable indoor cages availabe - this could make all the difference. Perhaps your child, deep down, is scared of it - some joint handling and confidence building could really help. Or it could be that your child just really has lost total interest so you may decide that the best thing to do in the interest of the pig is to find it a new and loving home. Please put the pigs welfare first - she does not deserve to suffer because of the fickleness [or whatever reason for the lack of interest] of a child - you can't bully a child into looking after it, you can explain the consequences but if you force them it will be the pig that suffers in the end . And please do not then go and buy your child a hamster or kitten or whatever else they now decide they want. Animals are not something to be had on a whim and they must learn they are not 'disposable' to be exchanged when something more exciting comes along.

From the many emails I do receive from young owners I know that the vast majority are extremely loving and caring and will do everything they possibly can to ensure their pig is happy and healthy.

A: A healthy pig can weigh between 2lb - 3/3.5lb - depending on their bone structure & body type - the females will tend to be at the lower end, with the boys getting that bit heftier ! - the main thing to worry about is their weight fluctuation - weigh your piggy regularly, if they lose 2oz then it's wise to take it seriously, carry out some healthchecks so you are armed with useful information to tell your vet - and then contact him without delay. See question below for further weight info.

A: I personally know of no way to determine exactly how old a guinea pig - ie by checking the teeth like you would a horse etc ! The only guidelines I can give are as follows:

Source: Anatomy of the Guinea Pig - Cooper & Schiller states:

• "The guinea pig increases in weight and length until about 15 months - after which, weight changes are secondary to loss or gain in stored body fat.
• The weights of mature males range from 800-1600gm and of mature females from 700-1300mm.
• The length, measured from nose tip to last vertebra, for mature males is 30-35cm and for mature females 28-32cm."

However, in showing terms an 'adult' is classed as 8 months and over. For more info refer to Facts & Figures page.

A: A healthy piggy's lifespan can be roughly between 5 - 8 years - but also shorter or longer !

A: Male piggies have 2 nipples in exactly the same place as female piggies so, as long as your piggy displays the usual 'male' attributes you can rest assured.

A: If you really must breed your piggy, rather than provide a home for an existing 'home-seeking' piggy, then the best age for breeding your guinea pig for the first time is approx 5 months. NEVER breed a female guinea pig that is over the age of 12 months (unless she has previously had pups) as her pelvic bones will have fused and she will most likely lose her own and her pups life. Click here for more info and useful links.

A: It is best to identify & separate the males (from the females) at 4 weeks of age - Check out my sexing page.

• I have read all-sorts of different estimates in a variety of books, of the ages to separate males - from between 3 weeks & up to 3 months !! So, to finally find out once and for all I rang Vedra at the CCT and she advised separating the males from the females at 4 weeks.

A: First of all I'd like to ask why on earth you would want to breed from her immediately ? Please think very carefully before breeding your pigs at all - any breeding carries risks for the mother and the resulting babies - and breeding straight away would put a terrible strain on the mother - as she recovers from the stress of giving birth to the first litter ! Perhaps you can offer a home to a needy/homeless pig from a rescue organisation instead ? If you really are intent on breeding your pig again please be as responsible as you possibly can. Do not let the boar have access to your sow after the first birth as she will be able to get pregnant again if he mates with her and this would really be too much of a strain on her and could have tragic consequences- on this note, also ensure you remove any male babies from her at approx 4 weeks old. Leave at least 3-4 months before even considering breeding from her again to ensure she is strong and healthy. But I would encourage you not to as there are so many homeless piggies already.

A: It is possible to have allergies to either the guinea pig itself or items such as hay or other bedding and associated dust. The best advice I can give on this subject is to get all members of the family to handle some guinea pigs and the bedding options you may use prior to obtaining your new pet - to see if anyone has signs of an allergy - rashes, breathing difficulties, sniffles etc. I have to say that if they do then it would be in everyone's best interest not to obtain a pet that causes health problems in your family. However, if you develop allergies when you already have your guinea pig then please refer to these useful links:

• Cavy Spirit - Very useful and comprehensive allergy advice
• Jack Pine Guinea Pig Rescue - Very useful allergy advice here too !

A: Well, I'd be more worried about the children poking and squashing the guinea pig than the children being harmed by the pig ! On that note - always ensure children are taught how to handle the pig correctly and learn they are not toys - young children should always be supervised when they are with guinea pigs - as with all animals. Please ensure the cage is situated out of a young child's reach. As to what the child could catch from a guinea pig - the main contender would be if your pig had a fungal infection called ringworm - this is contagious but your child can be treated by the doctor - as can you if you contract it ! Always follow good hygiene rules such as handwashing after handling animals etc. And monitor your guinea pigs health regularly so you spot any signs of a problem early on and can take the appropriate action - ie a vet visit / treatment. Guinea pigs are herbivores so their nice neat little poops are not really much of a concern in the way that a cat or dog's would be.

A: Yes ! Pigs can, and do pass wind - mainly caused by eating things like cabbage and brocolli ! A little amount of gas is relatively normal (as it is in humans!) and shouldn't be anything to worry about ! However, if your pig looks very bloated and swollen take her to the vets to get checked out - this is not normal.

A: I asked this very same question and have since been advised that this is perfectly normal - it is a fluid produced when piggies groom themselves or to ease irritation - it can sometimes be seen after bathing a guinea pig or when they are outside in their exercise run. Note: make sure it is just the 'milky' fluid and not discharge caused from something stuck in the eye.

A: Everything I have read on this subject advises that this smell will reduce after neutering but will not completely go away, some regular grooming should help keep on top of it ! Could be that his grease gland needs a clean !

A: I've never had a male piggy neutered [Billy was already neutered when he arrived here] but from what I have heard it's probably best to wait until your pig is at least 3-5 months old so he will be fully 'developed' - make sure you ask for advice from your vet - and able to cope with an anaesthetic. Make sure you have a good reason for getting him neutered as it is surgery and requires an anaesthetic which can be very risky. If you're getting him neutered just so he can live with your female piggy, maybe just put a separator in a large pen so they can live in the same pen and be company for each other, but can't actually 'get' to each other.

• Here is a link at Seagull's regarding neutering
• And a great one - with photos - at CavySpirit

A: After this type of surgery your boar may remain fertile for about 4 weeks. If it were me, I'd leave it about a month - just to be on the safe side - be advised by your vet.

A: Well, all I can say here is that over the last 10 years the Wheekies have regularly rummaged under their hay & ripped up and chewed their newspaper lining. They have never experienced a health problem I can attribute to this, so, I feel it is perfectly safe. Do let me know if you hear any different ! If you are really worried, put a nice deep pile of bedding material on top of the newspaper to limit her access to the newspaper whilst still allowing it to perform its absorbtion job !

A: Things you can try are freezing a plastic drinks bottle (almost full of water) then wrap it in a towel and place in your pigs cage - if they feel too hot they can lay next to it and cool down. Make sure you keep their fluids up by providing plenty of fresh foods (fruit/veg) - keep an eye on their droppings if you are providing more than usual ! Make sure you have your air-conditioning on (if you have it) and if you have a portable fan, turn that on (but make sure your pigs are not in a draught). If your pigs are outside it is vital that they are placed in a covered area and protected from a direct onslaught of the sun's rays. If you put them out in an exercise run - always ensure there is somewhere for them to shade themselves under.

A: It is normal for piggies to have small bald spots behind each ear (about ½ inch round - in some breeds this is more noticable than others) don't worry ! Note: If you notice any other areas of hairloss / scabs or your piggy is scratching a lot she may have a fungal or parasitic problem - consult a vet.

A: No, piggies don't need any vaccinations. However, you may want to get any new pig's that come to live with you treated with some Ivermectin by your vet, in case they are harbouring mites / parasites which live in and under the skin and cause them no end of irritation. Might be a precaution well worth taking.

A: Don't give them the cranberry juice which has added sugar / corn syrup etc, get hold of some 'pure' cranberry juice - that is just cranberry juice - you can try a dilution of about 75% cranberry to 25% water. As well as helping with cystitis (& UTI's) it also contains lots of Vitamin C - so is great for piggies. You can try adding a separate water bottle to your cage filled with the juice - and another one with water - so your piggy has a choice of what she wants to drink. Try them on fresh cranberries too.

A: Well, it's always best to get this type of thing looked at professionally, but generally, if the break is even they should grow back together and your piggy will be able to eat ok - but if one of the teeth is shorter than the other it's best to get them trimmed to the same length so they grow back together & your piggy will be able to pick up her food. I would take her to the vet to be on the safe side rather than risk her not being able to eat properly etc

A: Check out the sexing page and you will find some photos and useful links to help you.

Next >>

Facts and Figures

FAQ 2

Cavy Alfalfabet

Lost Your Pig ?

Guinea Pigs & Other Pets

Cavy Quiz

Cavy Quiz Answers

Evolutions of The Wheekies Herd

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Page Last Updated: 12/04/06