A: I do not feed any type of nut [including also things like sunflower seeds] to my guinea pigs for a couple of reasons: 1.They have a high fat content and so could lead to your pig becoming overweight and 2. They are also considered a choking hazard. The best diet to feed your guinea pig is a proper Guinea Pig dry feed mix/pellet with added Vitamin C, plenty of hay, fresh veggies and fresh water. Refer to Feeding page for further info.

A: There can be so many reasons for this - However, if your pig really isn't eating then you have to take your pig to the vet asap for an examination.

There are a few questions to be mulled over here too. Is your pig a new pig that has just come to live with you ? Sometimes a new baby pig who has been separated from it's siblings and mother and finds itself in a new home on her own and takes a while to start eating, maybe out of fear or loneliness etc - do you have another little pig you can put her with for company to encourage her to eat ? [there are of course, quarantine issues here though] - can you get one of her littermates to come and live with you too? Could it be that the pig is nervous and hides a lot when you go into the room so you never see her out and about and actually eating ? Is the food you are feeding her different from the food she has had before and perhaps she has not got used to it [remember to switch foods over slowly - see question a few down for notes on switching foods]. Please check the pen for signs of eating activity such as poops in the bedding, half munched pellets / veggies etc it could just be that she is eating when you are not watching her. Is she eating fresh veggies at all and just not her pellets ? Is the pig a new addition to your herd that is being bullied away from the food bowl by some of the other pigs that may need to be housed on her own or another food bowl put in the pen, to ensure she gets enough food ? Is your pig on antibiotics ? - this can often make a pig lose her appetite. There are so many possibilities here. Is it a pig you've had that has always eaten ok before but has now suddenly stopped eating ? Is there any sign of drooling under the chin - indicating perhaps a tooth problem, do you weigh your pig regularly - is she showing signs of weightloss ? Is she bright and healthy or looking fluffed up and poorly ? If you can't pinpoint the reasons to any of the above and get the issue resolved quickly and your pig is still not eating then you really have to take your pig to the vet asap for an examination to find out why she is not eating and find out what you can do to make her able to eat again and also find out if you need to supplement her feeding via a syringe etc This isn't a question that can be answered without having your pig properly examined - NOW - you must waste no time when your pig is not eating.

A: I generally feed a nice cup/handfull at breakfast time per pig - enough for them to eat at one sitting. Remove any fresh food not eaten within say, an hour or two, so it doesn't wilt/go off. I then feed another small handfull in the evening or bits and pieces of vegetable throughout the day as treats/taming bribes ! Make sure you build up quantities slowly and monitor droppings for any signs of softness. If droppings become soft then reduce the amount of fresh food until they firm up again.

A: Guinea pigs do not need shop bought 'treat' sticks/chews etc. To ensure his teeth get sufficient grinding matter always ensure your pig has plenty of nice fresh hay. As well as keeping their teeth working well it also provides plenty of fibre to keep their digestive systems healthy. Also make sure they get nice hard veggies such as carrots which gives their teeth something to have a good chomp on. I personally do not feed treat sticks/treat drops etc as I am also wary of their sugar/additive/colouring content etc. If I want to give them wood to chew on I occasionally give them a twig from an apple tree which I scrub first to ensure there is no soiling from birds or other wildlife. I have not fed any other 'woods/branches' so cannot advise on other types.

A: This is an area where you need be cautious - yes, you can feed plenty of wild plants from your garden but you need to be 100% sure of what you are feeding and ensure they come from a safe area - ie not soiled by wildlife or sprayed with chemicals or by a polluted roadside - please refer to our Wild Food page. You must be aware though that many wild plants, house-plants and garden plants are poisonous to your guinea pig so if you are not sure DO NOT FEED to your guinea pig - find a few you recognise and know are safe and stick to those. Why not start a vegetable plot in your garden to grow fresh veggies to feed your pig ? Or start a Wild food corner where you can cultivate dandelions and clover etc ?

A: A guinea pig's digestive system can be sensitive to sudden dietary changes so if you want to switch their dry food mix over to a different type please manage the swap carefully. Start by gradually mixing in a little of the new food into their original food - gradually change the balance over between the two foods until they are eating purely the new food, do this over the course of a couple of weeks and you should experience a problem-free switch. Always ensure you closely monitor their droppings for any signs of looseness - and stop changing quantities until their droppings firm up again as their digestion adjusts. Please make sure all your guinea pigs are eating the new food happily before discontinuing the original food. This rule applies when introducing new fresh veggies too or perhaps when introducing the years new supply of grass - feed them a little rather than a huge pile in one go in the spring ! Let their little digestive systems adjust gradually. When obtaining a new pig it's always a good idea to ask for a bag of their existing food so if it is different to yours you can swap them over gently. Always use a dry feed that is designed specifically for guinea pigs that has added Vitamin C. You may want to weigh your pigs over this period to make sure they are eating enough of the new food etc

A: As long as you feed your piggy with a dry mix which contains added Vitamin C (most commercial GP mixes do - but bear in mind the Vitamin C content deteriorates after a few months so make sure your supplies are fresh) and daily supplies of fresh vegetables / fruits your piggy will receive enough Vitamin C (they need Vit C to prevent them getting scurvy). The only time I may recommend it is if your piggy has been off her food (which is something you should investigate) - in which case I would add something like a soluble Vitamin C tablet to her water or syringe feed mix daily until she is eating normally again. Bear in mind though that the chlorine in tap water destroys the Vitamin C so use filtered water, or leave the water to stand for a day so the chlorine disappears. I have found in the past that my piggies don't really like drinking their water when it has Vitamin C added, if yours don't either then try sprinkling a crushed Vitamin C tablet over their fresh food. Other people have used a Vitamin C liquid supplement given to the piggy via dropper directly into their mouth. If you are syringe feeding your piggy you can add the Vitamin C to the feeding mix.

A: I never gave my piggies a salt lick - but then I heard that some people do, so I bought one. It never received a single lick so I now don't bother. A proper Guinea Pig dry food should contain a proper balance of vitamins and minerals so you shouldn't need a salt lick for nutrition purposes.

A: Well, as far as I've been able to make out it is all due to the high amount of beta-carotene in carrots. The liver of the guinea pig converts beta-carotene from the carrots (and other beta-carotene rich foods) into Vitamin A, but if there is already a lot of beta-carotene in their system they could overload - which could eventually cause liver problems (or even failure) due to all the excess Vitamin A. I personally feed my pig's carrots a few times a week and try and vary all the veggies I give them - as in humans, it's not good to eat the same thing all the time & variety is the spice of life !! Incidentally, I've never actually heard of a pig that has suffered from this problem.

A: It is fine to feed younger pigs alfalfa hay - up until about 6 months of age - after that it could be providing your pig with more calcium than she needs (as the pellets she is eating will usually contain alfalfa too - although you can get 'Timothy Hay' pellets from APD & Oxbow) - which may be implicated in the formation of stones. So, after that age it is best to provide a good quality meadow hay (or Timothy in the USA) along with her pellets / veggies.

A: You can indeed ! My pig's enjoy parsley, basil, dill, coriander [cilantro] etc

• Check out this Herb Link at Galens Gardens for further info.

A: As mentioned above, I occasionally give my pigs apple tree branches, they adore them - I havn't fed them any other types so my advice is limited to apple trees ! - Always ensure you scrub the twigs first to ensure there is no soiling by wild animals. And make sure the tree hasn't been sprayed with any chemicals.

A: This is really a matter only you and your child can decide. I know several people who keep their guinea pigs in their bedrooms and have absolutely no problems - I also receive regular emails from children who's pigs chew their cage bars during the night and keep them awake ! So, I'll just list here a few things to consider when deciding whether to locate the cage in your child's bedroom or not:

• If your pig is kept in a cage with bars rather than a solid sided cage such as mine or a grid cage with high sides from from Correx etc - be aware that the pig may spend parts of the night chewing on his cage bars - for his own amusement or to try and gain your child's attention etc. Guinea pigs do not sleep the whole night through like us - so, if you put the cage in the bedroom it may pay to think carefully about what type of cage you have - ie, one with no bars to nibble !
• On the same vein guinea pigs also will drink throughout the night so it is likely your child will get woken up by the rattling of the water bottle [as I did when I was decorating and slept in the piggy's room!] - you may want to remove the bottle overnight and replace with a bowl of fresh water. Make sure the pigs know that the water is in the bowl and that they are happy to drink from it. Never remove water *totally* overnight.
• Noise-wise again: Guinea pigs will do a fair amount of general 'chomping' and scampering throughout the night. When I was sleeping in the same room as my pigs [see above] I found that actually I was the one that kept them up sometimes - I'd turn over on the mattress on the floor and suddenly they'd all scamper frantically around as they wondered what on earth was lurking on the floor right next to their pen [only me!] then of course as soon as I spoke to them they all started wheeking thinking there might be some food going !
• If you do put the cage in your child's room please be *extra* keen about keeping the cage fresh and clean with regular 'spot' checks to ensure it is dry and odour free. Keep an eye on the general dust levels in the room to help prevent irritation of your child's respiratory system over time - although many bedding materials are described as 'dust-free' natural materials of course do still contain some dust so be extra good about vacuuming and dusting etc. Try and encourage your child to be extra tidy and put things away in cupboards to allow for quick and easy dusting and to prevent dust building up in their toys etc. Also ensure the bedroom receives adequate ventilation and that the temperature is kept fairly steady and not too hot or stuffy.
• Out of sight - Out of mind ? Please don't assume the pig is being cared for correctly - just because you can't see it if it is up in the child's room you really have to check daily to make sure it is healthy, clean and being cared for correctly - as the adult you must assume responsibility.
• Do you want your child to be shut away in their room for a long time playing with their pig ? It might encourage them to keep away from general family life. However, if you have a large rowdy family etc it may be a good thing for the child to have something to love and care for in the privacy of their own room and allow them peace and space.
• Perhaps one of you [mum or dad] really doesn't want a pet in the house ? A happy compromise could be housing the pig in your child's bedroom - I'd say the bigger the bedroom the more successful this will be.
• However, would you rather your child *and* the guinea pig were more part of the family - spending more time as a 'family' pet in a living area populated by all members of the family ? This will also allow all members of the family to become more familiar with the pig and therefore more chance to notice if something is wrong and perhaps all share looking after him.

A: Why do you want to swap from shavings ? Shavings are generally a perfectly good bedding material for guinea pigs as long as a couple of rules are followed.

• The general advice is NOT to use Cedar shavings following fears that the aromatic oils may be harmful.
• You should also NOT use sawdust as the particles are very small and could cause irritation etc.
• If you use pine shavings ensure they ARE 'Kiln' dried pine shavings. Some people like to open the bag of shavings prior to use to allow the shavings to 'breathe' and release some of the fragrance before putting the shavings in the pen.

Perhaps though, for whatever reason [an allergy ? you don't like the smell ? you're fed up of shavings clinging to everything ?] you just want to try a different bedding [I don't use shavings as I find the smell irritates me in the house - I used to keep my old hamster on shavings]. There are several different types available depending on what country you live in and things like the available budget can all factor in your decision of what type to use. You can swap over whenever you want to, it shouldn't cause any harm ! This list is not conclusive - just a few pointers for when you are considering your options.

• I personally use Medibed which is a dust-extracted chopped straw product - it's soft and comfy and I've never had any problems with it. If I run out before I get my next delivery I use Russel Rabbit bedding which is almost the same - but a lot more pricey !
• I would advise against using 'normal' straw from a bale as it is quite hard and can easily cause eye poke injuries.
• Hay on it's own over a lay of newspaper is not really effective enough as it isn't absorbant and it becomes quickly soiled and you don't want your pigs eating it then ! Use hay as a 'feed' item, placed in the pen to eat and burrow in or in a hay rack - on top of the other bedding which should carry out the absorbancy & softness requirements !
• I know it's popular in some places but I personally think Carefresh is very unpleasant after we tried a sample - me and the pigs were both unimpressed and I wouldn't use it if I was paid to !
• Shredded paper as bedding is also not really practical as it goes soggy very quickly.
• However, using sheets of Newspaper to line the cage [like most people do] for absorbancy and helping to make the cleaning out process easier is ideal. Then have a layer of a different bedding material on top for comfiness.
• Do NOT use clumping cat litter products as these, if ingested by the pig, can clog and cause illness/death.
• Some people like to use Fleece/Vetbed/Towels etc for bedding - it's nice and soft and warm. We use a towel to wrap the heatpad in but that is all - it needs changing every day which results in a washing load once a week. If you use them for the whole pen it's an awful lot of laundry but if you don't mind that then it could be an option. Make sure you shake really well to remove any hay etc so you don't clog your washing machine ! If we have a sick piggy we use a towel to line the hospital pen so we can check easily for wee's and poops or blood etc. We also have a variety of fleecy cosies placed in the pen or on our laps for snuggles !
• There are plenty of other bedding options but I havn't tried them so I am not qualified to comment. Eg Megazorb, Yesterdays News, Cell-Sorb etc. I'd recommend finding a Guinea Pig related Forum and make a post asking for personal recommendations of suitable products so you can gain multiple opinions and you can then make an informed decision.

A: My preferred method is to put about 20 raw grains of rice in the empty bottle then put about an inch of water in, put the cap back on, put my thumb over the end of the spout and shake the bottle vigorously - then empty the bottle out into a sieve [and dispose of rice grains into bin] and your bottle will be sparkling clean - you can clean the spout with a pipe cleaner or cotton bud. Clean any calcium deposits with white vinegar or similar.

A: It's surprising how many times I get asked this. Well, I have to say NO. Firstly, I've never seen a hamster or bird cage that is suitable for keeping a guinea pig in - they tend to have a smaller floor area in relation to their height and the doors are too small to allow proper access to your guinea pig. There is also the risk of contamination from a previous resident if sterilising is not carried out correctly. I have to say a big NO actually, on even just size alone. Please also DO NOT keep your guinea pig at the bottom of an aviary - there is a real issue about contamination of food/water from the bird droppings and also the birds flying overhead and the constant fluttering and squawking will cause a lot of stress to your guinea pig. Please refer to the Housing page to find out suitable housing for your guinea pig.

A: Please refer to the Supplies Links page for some UK sources. Happily, they are becoming more widely available - they're even in Argos now ! I still need to build up a list of Correx suppliers. But try sign shops.

A: YES !! Hay is essential for your piggy to provide roughage (for a healthy digestive system) and also to grind her teeth down to prevent dental problems.

A: The general opinion is that clay-based litters clump together when wet and can cause obstructions if eaten by the pig - so a NO go. If you want to use a litter of this nature then a paper-based litter could be a better option [see bedding question above].

A: I keep my pigs in a solid sided pen so luckily do not experience this problem ! Biting cage bars can be a result of hunger - boredom - attention seeking or maybe they just plain want something to chew on or a cuddle ! Please refer to 'Working with Biting Guinea Pigs' from Cavy Spirit - look on the right hand side of the page for lots of suggestions and info.

A: Guinea pigs are not generally renowned for being 'bitey' animals and very rarely bite. When does your guinea pig nip ? Some pigs have been known to bite at laptime if they want to go back to their pen for a 'convenience' break. [Once, with Trixie when I'd taken her to visit someone and I'd had her on my lap for ages and she'd fidgeted and fidgeted and I was so busy talking, I didn't put her down in her carrier - so, poor thing, to get through to me she nipped me [the first and only time], I put her in her carrier and she produced an extrememely large puddle of wee - so my fault entirely - she'd tried to warn me gently bless her !] Some pigs may also nip and not want to be handled if they are suffering from a mite infestation which makes their skin incredibly irritated so they don't want to be handled. Is your pig biting you or do you mean biting the cage bars ? Fortunately I've never had problems with biting pigs, so I'll provide a couple of useful links for you to read instead:

• Working with Biting Guinea Pigs - Cavy Spirit
• Little Nippers - Jack Pine Guinea Pig Rescue

A: Most pigs love floor time and scamper happily around, chortling to themselves and popcorning with glee ! If your pig is just sitting there and not moving, please consider the following:

• Is it your pigs first time out on the floor ? When introducing a pig to floor-time for the first expedition - they may not really understand what is happening or what is expected of them - they've been happily living in their cage not even realising there is a world outside of there or your lap - suddenly they're on the floor, maybe in an unfamiliar room with strange smells and sounds and a big wide open space - a guinea pigs natural instinct will be to either freeze [so it can't be seen by predators, or so it thinks !] or run for cover under the nearest object and refuse to come out ! With this in mind make sure you introduce your guinea pig to floor-time slowly - this can be by starting with a smaller area of the room sectioned off, once he is used to this and begins to sniff around, try him with a larger area next time. Can you sit on the floor with him with little bits of cucumber or his favourite treat, talking to him and offering him tit-bits to make him feel safe ? Sit him on your lap on the floor and let him climb down and explore when he feels brave enough. If you have a pen with a floor level opening door, try opening that and letting him come out to explore in his own time rather than just dumping him on the floor and expecting him to get on with it - he'll soon learn what floor-time is and really look forward to it - especially if you hide treats around the room for him to discover ! Getting him back in the pen will be your bit of fun... ! It goes with saying that you need to ensure your room is pig-safe. Refer to entertainment page for more info.
• If your pig has had plenty of floor-time in the past but is now sitting there not moving - is it possible there is something wrong with him ? Pick him up and check over his feet - has he pulled any nails off, are his feet looking sore ? Is his nail stuck in the carpet so he can't actually move from that spot ? How has his health been, has he been eating, is he his usual lively self or has he been looking sad and fluffed up ? If you have been carrying out regular healthchecks hopefully you will have spotted any signs of ill-health and got them sorted out asap - but give him a good check now and if you have any concerns at all then take him to the vet for an examination.

A: Please refer to the New Arrival page for further information on settling in and handling your new pig.

A: Please refer to introductions page where this is discussed in detail.

A: Piggies spend a lot of their sleep time with their eyes open (as a defence mechanism), this is probably what you are seeing - rest assured, your piggy will be getting lots of sleep - if you look closely when she is lying down with her eyes open you may be able to detect that she is off in dreamland [but don't approach too quickly or you may wake her up with a bit of a shock] !

A: This is your piggy's way of asking you to stop stroking her head. Respect her wishes. She might also be telling you she wants to go back to her pen as she needs a 'convenience' break.

A: Well, this could be one of 2 things:

• If your piggy is making a very loud low purring noise & shuffling (pacing) his back feet and also his teeth are chattering - this is normally seen between 2 males and is a sign of aggression / dominance.
• If your piggy is making a low purring noise and doing more of a sway around another piggy then this is courting behaviour either between and male & female or it could also be between 2 females when one or both of them is in season. Females may also try and mount each other at this time. Refer to Cavy Communication.

A: This is perfectly normal behaviour in guinea pigs (and also rabbits) it is called Coprophagy - they eat the first soft pellets as these contain extra B Vitamins and also useful gut bacteria.

A: Usually neutering male piggies will not reduce their sex drive and so they will still have the same urges and will most likely carry on being aggressive to each other. However, neutering would mean that you could then house either one of them with females as they (may try too) won't be able to impregnate them. However, when handled carefully, 2 males can live happily together - refer to: this page at bottom.

A: Please refer to the Bathing page for further information. With regard to the shower aspect of the question - I did read somewhere a few years ago that the water jets from a shower feel like sharp needle pricks on the delicate skins of guinea pigs - I'm afraid I don't know the truth in this but it did put me off ever trying to rinse my pig under a shower head - it's so easy to pour a jug of water over their backs or rinse in a bowl or under a mixer tap, that you don't really need another option anyway.

A: Again, refer to bottom of Bathing page - My opinion is that I don't think this is a pig's idea of fun and I would never let mine 'swim' for entertainment.

A: Ah, the age-old question ! I must assume you've asked them and they've said no for you to ask me this ! Can you think of any reason they may have said no - did they give you reasons - ask them calmly - don't argue back, then go and have a little think about the reasons they have given. Reasons will give you areas to work on !

I must say first of all though that your parents probably will have thought through your request very carefully [the vast majority of parents want to make their children happy, remember that!] and may simply have come to the conclusion that as a family, now is simply not the right time to take on the commitment of caring for a guinea pig, or any other pet - and it is a long-term commitment. This could be as a result of many circumstances - certain family situations / financial reasons / allergies - lots of valid reasons. You may simply have to respect your parents decision if it is due to circumstances that cannot be changed. They may however say that now is not the right time because of #### but in a few years they will reconsider.

Other possible changeable reasons could be as follows:

• Fear of guinea pigs ! Perhaps your parents have no experience of guinea pigs and think they are no more than rats and are unhygenic, a disease risk, will bite them or whatever - this is something you can work on - explain that guinea pigs are very clean creatures, they are herbiviorous and produce clean, neat little poops which for the most part will be contained within their pen. They do not smell when regularly cleaned out [which you of course will do willingly!] they very rarely bite etc. Do you have a friend with a guinea pig that you could ask to visit and bring their pig with them so your parents can handle it and see how lovely a lap-ful they are ?
• Past experience of inadequate pet keeping on your behalf. Hmm this is a trickier one. I have to say that I am sort of on your parents side on this one - so often younger members of the family have pets and simply grow bored with them or for whatever reason do not care for them properly. A result of this is that parents end up, on top of their busy lives, cleaning out pens and feeding little animals that their children promised they would look after. This isn't fair on the animal - it is the animal that suffers most. You can forgive your parents therefore when you suddenly decide that you want a guinea pig and *this* time you promise to look after it for ever ! A parent really is setting you a good example by showing you that pets are not dispensible - when you get bored with one it really isn't at all grown up to rehome/discard/ignore it in favour of a new and more exciting pet that is flavour of the moment with your friends ! If, however, you really have changed your ways then you have to set about showing your parents you understand where you went wrong before and prove to them how responsible you will be now. Do lots of research about guinea pigs and tell your parents what you have learned - read through Is a guinea pig the right pet for me ? and show it to your parents so they can see that you really do understand the commitment required - be open to discussion and don't jump down their throats or become over-emotional if they question your commitment - they are just being good parents and want to make sure they make the right decision for all involved. If they think you will get bored cleaning them out etc can you offer to help someone you know to keep theirs clean or help groom them or something, just to help show you are willing for the long-term commitment ? Can you offer to carry out little tasks around the house to earn some 'pig' money - to show you realise they do have certain expenses and you are happy to put in some time and hard work to earn some money to put by for toys or vet bills etc.
• What about pets for your brothers and sisters ? Perhaps your siblings have also asked for pets - your sister wants a rabbit, your brother wants a dog, your Dad wants a parrot - what a very hard decision to be made - what pet ?and for who ? and how can they say no to some of you and yes to one ? This is probably going to involve a family pow-wow with you all putting forward a rational argument for your pet of choice and a lot of finger crossing !
• Taking up too much time - perhaps you have important exams coming up or similar responsibilities which require a lot of time and effort on your behalf - your parents may think you will spend too long distracted away from your studies etc. You'll need to make sure your parents understand that you can see what they are concerned about and maybe come to some agreements about getting your studying done as soon as you are home from school and only then will you play with your guinea pig - see if you can work something out so that neither your studies or your guinea pig is neglected.

So, try and find out the reasons - there are usually very good reasons - then think about them, take your parents opinion and concerns into consideration and then see whether you can put their minds at rest and show them how you can get around their fears, calmly. But do remember, they are your parents and ultimately responsible for any animals bought into the home, so you have to respect their final decision in a mature manner - and then try again next year ;o)

And if you are allowed a pig - stick to your promises or you'll have no chance at all should you ever want another pet !

A: Guinea Pigs, when they are fully grown, generally grow to about roughly the same size - I like to say about a UK size 7 trainer size ! They are not like dogs or rabbits where you get smaller or much larger breeds. If someone tells you they are selling you a miniature guinea pig they are fibbing - it'll be a baby/very young pig which will grow to the usual adult size - although there are slight variations in perhaps an inch or two in length or a pound in weight - they are all roughly the same size when adults.

A: Please refer to Guinea Pigs and Other Pets for some information. As for introducing them - it so much depends on the individual dog and their temperament - the best advice I can give is to have someone holding firmly to the dog who should be on a collar and lead and if you have one - muzzled, until you know how it will behave with your pig. I would keep the pig firmly on your lap and make sure you have control of her at all times so she can't scurry off - a scampering pig will test even the calmest of dogs. I have to say, if it were me, I would keep them separate and not introduce them. I would concentrate on training the dog to ignore the guinea pig who should be in a very secure cage out of the dogs reach ! But this is, of course, my personal opinion ! Never leave them alone together, I hope this goes without saying.

A: Your piggy's hair will grow at approximately 1 inch per month - Check out Mop's hair growing experiment !

Next >>

Facts and Figures

FAQ 1

Cavy Alfalfabet

Lost Your Pig ?

Guinea Pigs & Other Pets

Cavy Quiz

Cavy Quiz Answers

Evolutions of The Wheekies Herd

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Page Last Updated: 12/04/06